G.Kabirski brand offers jewelry made by an auteur designer German Kabirski. His inspiration stems from the very idea of creating without regard for traditional forms and styles. Kabirski’s “rugged” art throws away the crutches of conventional production methods, it appears from air, clay and sea foam.
Kabirski’s favorite character is a cockroach, a critter that only knows most primitive instincts. This is how Tyler Knox describes it: “A cockroach, an arthropod of the genus Blatella and of the species Germanica, awakens one morning from atypically dreamless sleep. Cockroaches do not think, they either do something or don’t. When the cockroach lies still under the kitchen cupboard, there isn’t a single thought in its head. Cockroaches simply wait for an impulse to act as instincts tell them to.”
Kabirski experiments with materials and forms a lot. He uses exotic wood (african, ebony, mahogany, snakewood), he plays with silver textures. He combines gems with everything, from silver, gold and wood to leather and reptile skeletons. The end result is quite far from traditional jewelry. Kabirski creates small installations with their unique and sometimes wild energy.
Kabirski’s aesthetics exist outside of the traditional concepts of the beautiful and the ugly. Whatever seems hideous today always has a seed of harmony in it, and that harmony may not always be immediately recognized. Kabirski’s art doesn’t try to make you form ideas, it’s merely reflects your own ideas and images. That’s why his work feels so personal.
Key to understand his concept is simple: be yourself. Not living according to someone else’s empty concepts, not getting used to common standards, not becoming another brick in the fashion industry wall. Kabirski’s jewelry is like a distorted mirror, the one true egoists and narcissists cannot take their eyes off.
The sign above the entrance to Hermann Hesse’s Magic Theatre read: Not for everybody. Madmen only. Price of Admission: your mind.
Kabirski’s freak theatre is a frequent guest on various international expositions, and he has a lot of design awards. People who buy his jewelry come from all over the world – Australia, United States, Germany, Poland, Russia, Italy, Spain, Canada, Great Britain, Japan, Thailand. And this list is constantly growing.
Interview with a German Kabirski:
German Kabirski – probably the most mysterious jewelry brand not only in Russia but also in the world. German gives no interviews, keeps himself away from the spotlights. He is much more comfortable in a society of precious stones and even a simple pebble (base material of his famous branded pendants) than in a secular society.
– First made piece of the jewelry?
– Honestly, I do not remember, but I think it was something ugly, with a pretension to be called as design.
– German, one of the magazines you have called “esthete marginal,” and it immediately became a cliche. How would you describe your style? The direction in which you work?
– I find it difficult to define my style. I think that people buying my products could do it better.
– Regarding the “marginal” – as far as I know, the word originated in the US and they “anoint” immigrants which do not adapt to the new social conditions.
Perhaps they are right in this sense. I have a poorly developed herd instinct. And the word “esthete” lends a certain charm. I like it.
– Who is your customer? How do you represent it visually?
– I do not often communicate with my customers. But from my experience, it is always self-sufficient and thinking people. People living in the search.
– What are your favorite stones?
– I like the stones with so-called “natural defects”, with a variety of internal inclusions. Preference is given to colored tourmalines and sapphires.
– How many new collections a year appears?
– I am not oriented to produce by collections. Products describe my condition and mood in different periods of a year. In the year that is more than 700 models.
– You participated in the largest jewelry show in the United States – JCK Las Vegas. What are your impressions?
– Complicated. For some reason, Americans frighten of a sign “Russia”. Probably they already know that the import of Russian products is extremely difficult. I explained a lot that my products are made in Bangkok and it is radically changed attitude. I have gotten many contacts and proposals.
– Reaction to the brand Kabirski from professionals, colleagues, wholesalers …
– The most basic reaction (and not only at the JCK) is the disbelief that this is a Russian design. In overall I got good reviews
– Who do you think today is the leading trendsetters in the fashion in the jewelry world?
– I liked some US companies from New York and Los Angeles, with their unique brands and style. Germans and Scandinavians in the Design Pavilion amazed me too.
I do not follow fashion. A group of people from the world of show business sets the trends in it. Fashion is for everybody, style – for selective.
In the U.S. there is Harry Winston, Tiffany and Co, Jacob & Co и David Yurman. I prefer David Yurman.
In the world – it’s more complicated. I would probably choose Stephen Webster, Gilbert Albert and Roberto Coin from the “young” brands.
– Why does US market attract you?
– The US market is huge and therefore very attractive. Also, the recognition in the United States – it’s recognition in the world.
– Do your wife and daughters wear your products?
-My wife does it with a pleasure. Daughters are generally skeptical about any jewelry, especially to mine.
– Who are the celebrities wearing your jewelry?
– I do not keep track of who of famous people wearing my products. I would like to see them on the extraordinary and even odious personalities.
– German Kabirski – as a man: what does he love, what does not?
– It is a difficult question. I have very complicated relationships with the word love. I try to avoid that word if possible. I think either love or hate equally valuable. Real threat is indifference.
– How much jewelry should have a woman? Or as the Americans say, must have?
– The number and variety depends on a person. As a main issue jewelry has to emphasize woman ego and to carry positive energy. Beauty is made up of details.